Salem, MA

Wednesday, 23 July

The stacks at the electric plant are more of a Salem landmark than the 1871 lighthouse at Winter Island.

Steadfast rocks a bit, rolls five-degrees either side of even keel and swings in step with the gals on either side of her. NOAA got it right, so far: so’west 15 – 20, gusting to 30, with the promise of thunderstorms overnight. A witches’ brew, as it were. But then, this is the harbor of Salem, Massachusetts. You know, the Salem that invented the term “witch hunt.”

It was nothing like this when Steadfast yesterday motored away from Gloucester. Though just 12½ miles to the west, the two tall stacks of the Salem power plant were not to be seen, hidden behind a morning haze. But it was just a diaphanous veil, not fog, so it was a straightforward trip up Salem Channel and into the harbor.

The square-rigged East Indiaman Friendship rests where more than a dozen warehouses once stood on Derby Wharf in Salem Maritime Park.

Ever the accountant, Kate checks gables at the house Hawthorne made famous.

In its heyday in the nineteenth century, this was the sixth largest city in the US. Evidence of her fascinating history can be seen round every corner. A dark timber-framed house built in 1668 still looms over the harbor today as it did when it inspired Hawthorne’s fictional “House of the Seven Gables.”

It’s just one of a remarkable collection of historic homes, most bearing a hand-painted plaque that identifies the year of construction and original owner. In this town, “pre-war” means before 1776.

Customs collected in Salem once covered a big chunk of the US budget.

It was after the Revolution that Salem shipbuilders and merchants built a booming economy on trade with Europe and the Far East. Shipowner Elias Derby became the country’s first millionaire.  He built his stately mansion next to the Custom House and across the street from half-mile-long Derby Wharf.

For Salem, the issues were clear in the War of 1812.

Everybody here seems to have done well during the War of 1812, too, when the new country fought for “free trade and sailor’s rights.”  Shipowners converted their merchant vessels to privateers to prey on British shipping earning as much as 400% return on expenses. Several buildings from that era still stand, comprising the Salem Maritime National Park.

For every maritime site, though, there seem to be several seeking to capitalize on the witch trials. Witch House, Witch Museum, Witch Wax Museum, Witch Tees. Instead of the city seal, Salem Police cars carry the image of a witch on a broom!

Great, great, etc. grandfather George was among those found guilty of witchcraft.

But the witch trials of 1692 have nothing to do with hags in pointy hats. They have everything to do with real people, politics, pride and mass hysteria. Among the real victims is one of mother’s forebears, George Jacobs, Sr., convicted of being a warlock and executed. A well-known mid-19^th century painting shows his trial. This made mandatory a visit to Old Point Burial Ground and the simple granite memorial to the witch trial victims.

Hawthorne, the harbor, witch trials. Salem is full of stories.

And, for this evening, a good bit of wind.

Steadfast out.