Monthly Archives: July 2014

Thursday, 3 July

“Wait a second.  What the heck are you doin’ here?,” as if the one posing the question has a greater right to stroll this day down the waterfront of Provincetown, Massachusetts.

At Tony’s insistence, his car was taken for the day to drive as far out Cape Cod as would be dared.  After all, Thursday was the unofficial start of the Independence Day holiday weekend and with that, would release the full flow of vacationers on the summer colony.

But even on old US 6-A, with its winding two lanes, the traffic at mid-day wasn’t so stifling as to force a U-turn.  So after a couple of hours coursing through hamlet and town—Dennis, Brewster, Wellfleet, Eastham, etc.—past entire villages of weathered cedar-shake, there flanking the asphalt were the tall dunes that define the approach to Provincetown.

There are so many well-preserved Victorian buildings in P’town like the town hall, with the Pilgrim Monument just behind.

P’town’s worth the trip, for sure.  At that point, the “forearm” of the Cape tapers to the “wrist,” just a thin sliver of sand of which P’town makes maximum.  Driving’s a challenge in town.  Pedestrians fill narrow streets, gawking in shops, up at Victorian homes or across at each other.

And so, it was noted that the gentleman standing outside the chocolate shop bears an incredible resemblance to…  No, wait.  That IS Chuck Wrenn!

While Holly and Chuck pose with the crew, the girls go for chocolate!

How crazy is that?!  Holly, Chuck and the girls—for many years, neighbors across the back alley on Church Hill, who we’d not seen for a long, long time—just happened to chose this day to visit P’town, too.  It was great to catch up, a wonderful and unexpected gift and the best part of this day.  And then, all these pilgrims were on the ways back down “6” to their respective homes, land-based or floating as the case may be.

Travel safely, friends!

Steadfast out.

Wednesday, 2 July

(Note: with the remnants of hurricane Arthur expected sometime tomorrow, Steadfast now is safely docked behind the hurricane gates in New Bedford, MA, one of the most secure harbors on the East Coast.)

Oh, man, Little Red sounds go-o-o-o-o-o-od!

And, motoring out of Newport’s Brenton Cove, it’s a good thing. It’s already blowin’ good in the harbor and the forecast calls for a southerly at 10-to-15, building to 20, with four-foot seas. Nothing all that intimidating, mind you. Enough to get the attention of those at the helm of boats in the 27-foot-range, i.e., Steadfast, but then again, what could make for a rousing 36-mile ride to New Bedford, this particular boat’s next destination.

Heritage, one of the semi-retired A-C contenders, awaits another charter.

Coming into Newport yesterday, a stop at the fuel dock gave the opportunity to enjoy a tour of the harbor and see some of the gorgeous yachts moored here.  For instance, there’s a whole fleet of America’s Cup veterans in semi-retirement, now taking tourists on day charters.

Ida Lewis again provided the base of operations, this time for a ‘good stretch of the legs’ as the crew headed down the pier and up Thames Street, stopping to tour the International Yacht Restoration School, better known simply as “Iris.”

A cedar Adirondack skipper, Beetle Cat, Herreshoff launch and Quincy Adams 17 are among the craft being brought back to life at IYRS.

Father down Thames, there was lunch at Benjamin’s that was tasty, ample, entertaining—Steve the raw-bar shucker is a rare talent—and a good value.  Highly recommended.

Nothing subtle about this!

No visit to Newport is complete with out a visit to the stone tower accredited to the Vikings.

Thus adequately fueled, the walk then began in earnest at the foot of Pelham, passed the fabled Viking Tower and then on a few blocks more to tread along the Cliff Walk. Sandy danced a jig on the cliffs and damage still is being cleaned-up but the views remain as spectacular as ever.

The ravages of Sandy could not diminish the spectacular views along Newport’s Cliff Walk.

Through a quiet dinner aboard, the wind continued to blow. Same through the night. Never laid down and was blowing the same in the morning as Steadfast headed out.

Turning to port at Fort Adams, though, the anticipated choppy seas weren’t there. Heading east round Brenton Reef, it did get rolly, with the four-footers on the beam, which precluded opening the Genny. It’d collapse, could not keep the wind. At least, not ‘til turning no’east into Buzzards Bay.

From there, it became a rip-snorting run up the bay, up the four-mile New Bedford channel and past the hurricane wall and gates that protect the harbor.

The miles-long breakwaer and giant gates make New Bedford one of the safest harbors in the east.

Our friend Tony Volk, skipper of Patience, arranged for Steadfast to have a slip across the harbor from the pier on which sits the restored whaler Charles W. Morgan.

The forecast already has prompted postponement of New Bedford’s fireworks display. It may preclude a visit aboard the Morgan. But for this day, at least, no fireworks from Little Red for which we are most appreciative.

Steadfast out.