Robert provides direction to the crew of Sovereign.
Weak signal. Must have open view to sky. OK? GPS dialogue box while on Dismal Swamp Canal
Sunday, 26 October 18.4 SM
Tannin-colored swamp water rushes into the lock.
Snowbirds who’ve spent the night at the free dock gather now at the Lockmaster’s House, a small white frame two-room cottage that serves as Robert Peek’s office and storm shelter. His guests already have consumed one pot of coffee. He’s brewed a second, opened a plastic tray of fresh fruit cubes and brought out a stack of every sort of breakfast pastry Entenmann’s bakes when he adds this advisory.
Steadfast motors through Deep Creek Bridge.
“You do realize, the bridge doesn’t open ‘til all this is gone!”
There are chuckles but Robert is only half joking. The lock slowly fills with what he assures is “the cleanest, purest water in North America. The tannin content means there’s no bacteria.” The gates on the lock’s north end then swing slowly aside for the scheduled 0830 opening and the day’s first customers, Robert instructing each on where and how to tie off to the bulkhead. The history class begins, questions are answered, more coffee poured, pastries enjoyed and then, once crews reboard their respective yachts, the lock opens and Robert makes the short drive downstream to raise the Deep Creek Bridge. The “0830 opening” finally is completed about 0930.
Her vitals having been checked, Little Red answers the call and Steadfast motors away from “Elizabeth’s Dock” and joins the morning parade. A nearly complete cedar and pine canopy lets a little sun stream through the top but not much in the way of satellite or cell tower signals. (Hence the message on the GPS screen. Not that the GPS is needed for waypoints here, just for clicking off the distance.) There is beauty, though, and lots of quiet.
There’s no mistaking the VA-NC state line.
Not long after crossing the state line, Sovereign’s unmistakable red hull is seen tied off at the south end of the North Carolina Welcome Center. A 44’ American Tug, Pat and Richard are heading back home to Florida’s Gulf Coast and motored well ahead of Steadfast all morning after locking through Deep Creek. Richard beckons, readies fenders and in short order Steadfast rafts up to Sovereign’s starboard side.
Steadfast got squeezed at the Welcome Center.
Along with free dockage for the night, the state provides a water hook-up, restrooms and travel information aimed mainly at passing motorists. There’s also a swing bridge across the canal to Dismal Swamp State Park with an exhibit center and miles of walking trails. It’s just an all-around great place to stop along the way.
Just a shame Robert won’t be here with coffee and pastry in the morning.
Steadfast out.
At Sea with Steadfast 
Recent Comments