The distant rumbles are not thunder.
Wednesday, 5 November 18.4 SM
“Hello, all stations. Hello, all stations. Hello, all stations.”
The transmission is loud and clear. Coast Guard Station North Carolina has something to say.
“The United States Marine Corps will conduct live fire exercises along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway between Bear Point and Mile Hammock Bay. For the safety of all mariners, access will be restricted from 0700 to 1200 hours.”
Coast Guardsmen patrol the safety zone.
When there’s talk of “live” fire, it tends to get one’s attention, or so one would expect. Apparently quite a few mariners—Snowbirds planning to transit through Camp LeJeune—didn’t get the word.
Given the Marines’ schedule, there’s no reason to get to Bear Point prior to noon, so departure from Swansboro is not ‘til 1115 today. Steadfast quickly moves into the ICW behind Voyageur, a 40-something Island Packet. She picks up a fair current that carries them both to the restricted zone just after noon. Good. Then the fun begins.
A tricky turn slowed more than 3 dozen boats.
Coming around a bend, the view ahead is of dozens of boats, sail and power, queuing up to clear the confusing “S” curve at green “61” as the channel splits the shoals at Brown’s Inlet. The Cape Dory ketch Morning Maid is on the mud, blocking the already narrow channel. A 45’ motor yacht tries to squeeze through but turns too soon at the green and she’s aground, too. Not good. Traffic comes to a standstill. Boats back down, circle. Patience wanes. Skippers are not happy to have their day’s itinerary interrupted. It’s getting cold in Carolina. (This is exactly why Second Wind sallied on last night to get beyond Camp LeJeune!)
Traffic backs up at the Onslow Beach Bridge.
Steadfast idles in place, coasting forward a couple of boat lengths then backing off again, ‘til the clutter finally clears. The 35’ sloop Grace is motioned to pass, then a 44’ catamaran. After you. There aren’t enough hours of daylight left to get much beyond Mile Hammock. Besides, we’re all going to meet again, soon, at the Onslow Beach Bridge.
The Onslow Bridge opens, if asked, on the hour and half-hour. This day some openings last longer than usual. At the 1300 opening, for instance, an unaided record 31 boats went through on a single swing (the bridge tender recalls counting 42 one time, but that was ’cause the bridge wouldn’t close).
Just a half-dozen, the stragglers from the “61” back-up, motor through at 1330. Then it’s on to the popular anchorage at Mile Hammock Bay, the south end of Camp LeJeune. So popular this afternoon that it’s decided to motor another two miles to the pier at Swan Point Marina on the outskirts of Sneads Ferry.
“Nope, ain’t nothin‘ here,” says (I am not making this up) Tina Turner who, with her mother, is resident co-owner of Swan Point. “There’s a coupla rest’rants up the road but that’s it.”
The Donald Richard is home-sweet-home to her skipper.
You’ve been here before, even if you’ve never been here before. There’s a fixed concrete pier and a floating concrete pier. There are wood piers whose highest and best use would be in a bonfire. A live-aboard makes his home on a mast-less wood sloop, and what doesn’t fit aboard clutters the pier to which she’s tied. Derelict boats abound in stark contrast with a couple of absolute classics. Go figga.
There’s a rap on the hull. It’s 1930, well past dark, and Swan Point otherwise is quiet. But this is the self-proclaimed “friendliest marina on the ICW.” So the hatch is slid open and, waddya know, there’s Tina. Her announcement is far friendlier than what the Coast Guard had to say this morning.
Off to breakfast.
“Sorry to botha ya,” she says, “but ah thought-cha maht lahk a loaf-a cinnamon bray-ud, just outta the oven.”
Tina, that’s a pretty good bet. Ought to go well with morning coffee, assuming it lasts that long.
Steadfast out.
At Sea with Steadfast 
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