Port Mayaca

Thursday, 5 March                                                            66.3 SM

Sixty-six statute miles, 11 hours, four bridges, three locks, one lake and no sailing. A big day for Steadfast. More so for Little Red. All of which began in the catacomb-quiet cast by fog so thick, it drips off the rigging.

Just follow the reflections.

In such stillness, shameful it seems to shake Red to wakefulness.  But wake she must, if Steadfast is to make her date on the east side of Lake Okeechobee. The forecast, remember? Cross today or, now, she’ll rest a week in LaBelle or maybe Moore Haven or, could it be, Clewiston? No, no. It’s Port Mayaca or Bust!

There is the little issue of the fog which, at 0630, blankets the bridge at LaBelle such that the bridge deck above is heard—the rumbling of vehicle tires rattle the steel—but not seen. Thick. Not a broth, mind you, but soup-like. Creamy style.

You may not think of it but this is Cattle Country!

The Pearson 34 Sirena of Oriental (NC) backs off the pier moments ahead of Steadfast.  Then the larger boat beckons Steadfast to lead the way up stream. Following this morning is easier, one thinks, than leading. Nav lights “on” seems a prudent step. There are no markers along this stretch. One pilots this morn not by looking ahead but by staying just off the image of the shore that reflects off the river surface, sliding slightly to starboard.

The occasional hitchhiker grabs a ride.

Now, once the sun lifts fully above the tree line, the fog has no future. It is gone, gone, gone. The sun seizes command of the day, generating a welcome warmth wanted, but seldom enjoyed, in March in far off lands like, say, Virginia. Nice.

There’s a lock at Ortona where the Master assures the two vessels transit with dispatch. The next stop is the pier at Moore Haven Town Hall, a fuel stop where each crew quickly drains a yellow five-gallon can, the diesels slaking thirst for the lock there and the day’s final forty miles.

Sirena makes the turn at R-14.

A GPS chart-plotter is a wonderful thing. Thusly equipped, it’s here that Sirena takes her turn in the lead, markers being few and far between across the 25-mile breadth of Lake “O.”

There’s a turn hard a-port at Clewiston, one to starboard at Green #1, and again to port at Red #14. Then it’s easy, 12-to-14-feet of water over a limestone bottom, all the way to Port Mayaca. Crossing the lake, the afternoon sun is complemented by a refereshing breeze over the bow of 5.5, maybe 5.7 knots. Hey, what do you know, that’s the same speed Steadfast is making through the water! No matter, it feels good.

Air and water seems to meld across Lake “O.”

“The lock’s open, cap’n. Keep ‘er comin’.” The voice of the Master encourages Sirena and Steadfast to motor straight through the Port Mayaca Lock, gates at both ends open as the river level here is the same as the lake. Slowly through, it’s on to the tall dolphins that stand guard off to port beyond the lock’s east entrance. Sirena selects two and makes fast. Steadfast, farther down the line, likewise settles in for the night.

Another good day.  No fog now, just a pleasant reverie after a BIG traverse, smartly done.

Steadfast out.